Terms Used In Crochet - Knitting, Crochet, and Netting, with Twelve Illustrations

 From Knitting, Crochet, and Netting, with Twelve Illustrations  by Eleonore Riego de la Branchardiere. It is available for download on Project Gutenberg at https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/36669 .

The original text from the book is in italics following a modern explanation. 

Terms Used In Crochet

Chain (ch): To begin, make a slip knot on your hook. Yarn over (wrap the yarn around your hook) and pull the yarn through the loop on your hook. Repeat this process to create a chain of the desired length.

To make a chain—Make a loop, and draw the wool through it.

Beginning a Row: This book does not recognize the chain and turn to start a new row. Instead, the thread is cut at the end of a row. To start a new row, slip stitch into the side of the previous row and chain 1.

To commence a row—Put the needle in the side of the 1st stitch, bring the wool through, and work a chain stitch. After the 1st row, there is always a stitch at the side.

Skip (or Miss) a Stitch: Pass over the indicated stitch in the previous row without working into it.

Miss a stitch—Pass over 1 of the row before.

Increase: Work two stitches (of the type specified in the pattern) into the same stitch.

To increase—Work 2 stitches in 1.

Decrease: The pattern will specify how to decrease stitches. Common methods include working two stitches together (e.g., single crochet two together, sc2tog) or skipping a stitch. Simply skipping a stitch is not usually considered a decrease on its own, although it does reduce the number of stitches.

To decrease—Miss a stitch.

Changing Direction (Working in Rows): This book does not recognize the chain and turn to start a new row. Instead, the thread is cut at the end of a row. To start a new row, slip stitch into the side of the previous row and chain 1.

In crochet that is worked square, at the end of a row, cut the wool off, and draw it through to fasten it; begin at the other end.

Working into the Chain: When instructed to work into the chain, insert your hook into the loop created by the chain stitches, not between the loops. (This is usually only done in the very first row.)

In the chain—Put the needle through the loop formed by the chain stitches, in the row before, instead of in a stitch.

Shepherd or Single Crochet

This describes a technique for working in joined rounds, often used for circular projects like cuffs, wrist warmers (muffatees), and booties.

This stitch is typically worked in joined rounds, suitable for projects like cuffs, wrist warmers, and booties.

1. Foundation Chain: Create a chain of the required length and join it with a slip stitch to the first chain to form a ring, being careful not to twist the chain.

2. Round 1: Insert your hook into the first chain of the foundation chain, yarn over, and pull the yarn through (two loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook (this completes a single crochet stitch). This is your first stitch of the round. Continue working single crochet stitches around the chain. Join with a slip stitch to the first single crochet stitch of the round.

3. Round 2 and subsequent rounds: Instead of working into the top loops of the stitches in the previous round, work into the back loop only of each stitch. This creates a tighter fabric and often a more defined rib. Continue working single crochet stitches around. Join with a slip stitch to the first single crochet stitch of the round.

This method creates a seamless tube of crochet fabric. The key is joining each round with a slip stitch and working in the back loop only (or as the pattern indicates) for subsequent rounds.

This stitch is usually worked round, for Cuffs, Muffatees, Boots, &c. &c.

Make a chain, join it, keep the loop on the needle.

1st round—Put the needle in the 1st chain stitch, draw the wool through; there will now be 2 loops on the needle; draw the last loop through the 1st.

In the 2nd and following rounds, take the 1st part of the chain on the needle.

Plain, Double, or French Crochet

This passage describes a basic single crochet stitch worked in rows. Here's a modern interpretation:

Foundation Chain: Create a chain of the desired length.

Row 1: After making your turning chain (the number of chains depends on the stitch you're using—usually one chain for single crochet), insert your hook into the indicated stitch of the foundation chain (usually the second chain from the hook if you're not counting the turning chain). Yarn over (wrap the yarn around your hook) and pull the yarn through the chain (two loops on your hook). Yarn over again and pull the yarn through both loops on your hook. This completes one single crochet stitch. Repeat this process across the chain.

Changing Direction (Working in Rows): At the end of the row, turn your work. Do not cut the yarn. Your turning chain will position your yarn correctly to begin working back across the row. The pattern will then tell you where to insert your hook for the first stitch of the next row.

Make a chain. After commencing the row, put the needle in a stitch of the chain, draw the wool through; there will be 2 loops on the needle. Take the wool on the needle again, and draw it through the 2 loops. At the end, cut the wool off, draw it through, and begin at the other end.

Treble Crochet

This passage describes a double crochet stitch. Here's a modern interpretation:

Foundation Chain: Create a chain of the desired length.

Row 1: After making your turning chain (usually two chains for double crochet), yarn over (wrap the yarn around your hook). Insert your hook into the indicated stitch of the foundation chain (usually the third chain from the hook if you're not counting the turning chain). Yarn over and pull the yarn through the chain (three loops on your hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through two of the loops (two loops remaining on your hook). Yarn over again and pull the yarn through the remaining two loops. This completes one double crochet stitch.

Make a chain. After commencing the row, put the wool round the needle, put the needle in a stitch of the chain, draw the wool through; there will be 3 loops on the needle. Take the wool on the needle again, draw it through 2 of the loops; take up the wool again, and draw it through the 2. This is 1 stitch.

Crochet In Two Colors

This passage describes how to change colors in crochet while carrying the unused yarn. "Plain crochet" in this context likely refers to single crochet, but the technique applies to other stitches as well. Here's a modern explanation:

This technique is used for colorwork or tapestry crochet. The unused color is carried along with the working stitches, basically laid on top of the stitch you are working with, or on the wrong side of the work as a float. To change colors:

1. Work your stitches in the current color to the point where you want to change.

2. Before completing the last stitch of the current color (when you have two loops left on your hook), drop the current color.

3. Pick up the new color and yarn over with it.

4. Draw the new color through the two loops on your hook, completing the stitch.

5. Continue working with the new color, carrying the unused color along the wrong side of the work. Work your stitches over the carried yarn to keep it secured. This prevents long floats on the back of your work and keeps the colors in their designated places.

This is always worked in plain crochet. Lay the color not wanted along, and work over it. In changing the color, draw it through before finishing the stitch, when there are 2 loops on the needle.

Happy Hooking!

 

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This free vintage crochet instructional is from Knitting, Crochet, and Netting, with Twelve Illustrations by Eleonore Riego de la Branchardiere. It is available for download on Project Gutenberg at https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/36669 . The wording has been updated for modern readers with the assistance of Google Gemini 2.0 Flash.