Free Vintage Crochet Child's Cardigan Pattern - Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet

This free vintage crochet child's cardigan pattern is from the Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet. The pattern has been updated to modern use with AI. You will find the original text from the book at the bottom of this page in italics. The book's how to crochet section is here: A Lesson In Crochet - Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet.  The modern pattern is untested. I am adding these free vintage crochet patterns to my blog so they are in one place and easily searched.

Vintage Crochet Child's Cardigan Free Pattern

Modern Pattern:

This vintage crochet pattern creates a sweater using worsted weight yarn (like a 4-ply). You'll need a size 4 (or appropriate size) crochet hook. The sweater is made in two halves and joined at the center back.

Body of Sweater (Two Halves):

Chain 160. Turn.

Row 1: Double crochet (dc) in each chain across. Chain 1, turn.

Row 2: Dc in each dc across, working in the back loop only to create a ribbed texture.

Row 3 (Star Stitch Row): Chain 3. Draw a loop through the 2nd and 3rd chains from the hook. Draw a loop through each of the next two dc. Yarn over and draw through all 5 loops on the hook. Chain 1 (this closes the star). Draw a loop through the eye of the star (under the chain-1 space). Draw another loop through the back part of the last vertical loop of the same star. Draw a loop through each of the next two dc. Yarn over and draw through all loops on the hook. Chain 1. Repeat from * to the end of the row. Turn.

Rows 4-5 (Rib Rows): Work two rows of dc ribbing (dc in the back loop only).

Row 6 (Star Stitch Row): Repeat Row 3.

Continue alternating star stitch rows and rib rows until you have 4 rows of star stitches and 5 rib rows total.

Shaping the Front:

Next Row: Work 39 star stitches. Work a rib row. Continue until you have 3 rows of 39 star stitches each. Work a row of dc (no ribbing). Break the yarn and fasten off securely. Remember, all star stitches must be worked on the right side. If the yarn is not positioned correctly for a right-side row, break the yarn at the end of the previous rib row, re-attach it at the beginning of the row, chain 3, and proceed with the star stitch row.

Neck Shaping (Front):

Starting at the neck edge of one front piece, skip the first 6 stitches (equal to 3 star stitches). Work to the end of the row in star stitch. Work a rib row. Work two more rows of star stitches, with alternating rib rows. Decrease one star stitch at the neck edge of each star stitch row.

Work the other front piece to match.

Joining:

Join the two halves at the center back using single crochet (sc), working through both loops of each piece. Be sure to work neatly so the seam is invisible. Join the underarms, leaving openings for the armholes.

Border:

Work 10 rows of dc around the entire garment (fronts, bottom, and neck), widening at each of the bottom corners of the fronts on each row to create a miter. Alternatively, you can work around the neck and down the fronts first, then work around the bottom and across the front border. The mitered corners look neater.

Buttonholes:

On the 5th row of the front border, make buttonholes by chaining 5, skipping 5 stitches, and repeating to create the desired number of buttonholes spaced evenly apart. On the next row (working back), work a dc in each of the 5 chain spaces.

Sleeves:

Chain 80, plus 1 chain for turning. Work a rib row of dc. Work 40 star stitches across the row. Repeat, alternating star stitch rows and rib rows, until you have 10 rows of star stitches and 11 rib rows total. Make sure the star stitches are always worked on the right side.

Join the sleeve seam with sc on the wrong side, just like the back.

Cuffs:

Work 12 rounds of dc, one dc in each stitch. Turn the cuff back.

Finishing:

Sew the sleeves into the armholes. Sew buttons onto the garment, aligning with the buttonholes.

Sizing:

This sweater can be easily sized up by increasing the starting chain length and adding more rows of star stitches and ribbing while maintaining the proportions. The stitch combination creates a lovely texture.

Original Text:

Use Germantown wool, cream-white or any color desired, and bone hook size 4, or a hook large enough to carry the wool easily. The sweater is crocheted in the length in two parts, and is joined in center of back.

Make a chain of 160 stitches, turn.

1. A double in each stitch of chain, chain 1, turn.

2. A double in each double, working in back vein of stitch to form a rib.

3. Make star-stitches along the rib, thus: Chain 3, draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches of chain, counting from hook, and a loop through each of 2 doubles; take up wool and draw through the 5 stitches on needle, chain 1 to close the star, draw a loop through eye of star just made (under the 1 chain), another through the back part of last perpendicular loop of the same star, and a loop through each of 2 doubles, close the star by working off all the loops, chain 1, and repeat to end of row, turn.

Make another rib of doubles by working across twice, then a row of star-stitches, and continue until you have 4 rows of stars and 5 ribs; on next row work 39 stars, then a rib, and continue until you have 3 rows of 39 star-stitches each. Work a row of doubles, break and fasten the wool securely. Bear in mind that the star-stitches must be all worked on the right side; the 1st row will come so, but the 2d will not unless the wool is broken off at the end of 2d rib and fastened in at other end again; then chain 3, and proceed with the row.

Beginning at the neck-end of the front strip, leave the 1st 6 stitches (equal to 3 stars) and work to end of row in star-stitch; make a rib as directed. Work 2 more rows of stars, with the ribs alternating, leaving 1 star less at the top or neck-end each time.

Work the other half to correspond, then join in center of the back with single crochet, putting hook through a loop of each part. If carefully done the joining will not be discernible. Join under arms, also, leaving the opening for armholes.

For the border: Work 10 rows of double crochet, a double in each stitch, around the entire garment, fronts, bottom and neck, widening at each of the lower corners in each row to form the miter. Or, if preferred, work around neck and down fronts first, completing the border; then work around the bottom and across the front border. The widening for miter is neater. The buttonholes are made in the 5th row of front; chain 5, miss 5, and repeat, making as many openings as desired, at equal distances. In working back, next row, make also a double in each stitch of 5 chain.

For the sleeve: Chain 80 stitches, with 1 to turn, work a rib of doubles on the chain, then 40 star-stitches. Repeat until there are 10 rows of star-stitch and 11 ribs, taking care, as before, that the stars are worked on the right side always. Join the sleeve-seam on the wrong side with single crochet, as you did the back.

For the cuff: Work 12 rounds of double crochet, 1 double in each stitch and turn back. Sew the sleeves into the armholes, and sew on buttons of a size appropriate to the garment and corresponding with the buttonholes.

This sweater may be very easily enlarged to any desired size by starting with a longer chain and making more rows of star-stitch and ribs to keep the proportion. The combination of stitches is a most attractive one.

Happy Hooking!
 
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This free vintage crochet pattern is from Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet by Anonymous. It is available for download on Project Gutenberg at https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/26113 . The wording has been updated for modern readers with the assistance of Google Gemini 2.0 Flash.